Highland Sojourn: Day 9 ~ Spey Bay Golf Club

It’s almost unbelievable that a place like this still exists.

Built in 1907, the course stretches east along the Moray Firth and the North Sea. Holes one through seven march steadily toward the far edge of the property, the sea never far from view. Number eight — a 130-yard par three — marks the end of that outward journey. Its elevated half-barrel green is a tricky target, with barely fifteen yards of depth and steep fall-offs both short and long. Precision is at a premium.

The inward trek turns west and begins with number nine, a narrow 458-yard par five. Out-of-bounds runs tight along the left, while towering banks of gorse — glowing bright yellow in the spring bloom — guard the right. A careless tee shot here brings trouble quickly.

The course itself is in the midst of quiet improvement under a new group of investors. The greens are immaculate and many tees have been recently rebuilt. The fairways, however, remain rustic, rolling, and completely original — a reminder of golf as it once was. When you find the short grass, it’s wise to roll the ball onto a clean patch of turf before playing on.

The weather could not have been better. Clear skies, bright sun, and a gentle breeze out of the north. I teed off at 10:15 and saw only one other golfer on the entire course.

Experiences like this are why I returned to Scotland to play golf and fish. This one easily earns a place in my personal top ten. I would happily return, especially given that the River Spey — one of the world’s great salmon rivers — lies just next door to the west.

What a combination.

A final score of 76 only added to the enjoyment of the day.

Tomorrow the pursuit resumes — the search for my first Atlantic salmon. So far they’ve proven to be worthy adversaries and wily customers when it comes to the fly.